Okinawa Day 6: More Weight, More Miles

Katsuren (the peninsula) should not be mistaken for katsurei (the word for circumcision).  Nor should the word hitsujikai (shepherd) be mistaken for hitojichi (hostage).  Nevertheless, I made both mistakes many years ago on the Katsuren peninsula that juts out of the east coast of Okinawa about half way up to Nago from Naha.

Today, I thought to tool around.  Head up the east coast of Okinawa (a place I know very little about), and sorta meander about.  I threw on the full load of panniers (camping gear, etc.) and moseyed up to Katsuren making stops at just about every opportunity I could (to force myself to take it easy - I'm not very good at this).  I caught a few minutes of a little league game, stopped by a roadside ice cream stand manned by a very chatty 13 year old girl, and found a beach or two.  I had no intention of going around the peninsula, but before I knew it, there it was, so I peddled around it on the little narrow agricultural service roads that hugged the water - the beautiful water.

Southern coast of the Katsuren Peninsula.

Which reminds me of something - every Okinawan is a farmer to some degree or another.  Historically, it is very much a part of Okinawa, but as urbanization has taken over some parts of the island, you'll still see many small yards around homes surrounded by a variety of crops.  Many don't have lawns, they have rows of something growing.

But that's all beside the point.  The point is, once I decided to go around the peninsula, I was committed to it.  There was no backing out.  And if I was going to meet up with my wife at her friend's home down south later in the afternoon, I'd have to put some hustle into it.  And about the time I got around to the north side of Katsuren (around noon), hustle had left my legs.  I could still go at a modest pace, but there was no speed left in them.  Bummer, too, because the remainder of the ride was one hill after another.

There's a good story behind this rope, I'm sure.
I just couldn't find anyone who knew it.

However, I stopped at the sight of a shack of sorts with a plastic tarp roof coming off the side of it to provide a shelter for customer.  The sign said two words: Okinawa Soba. It's Okinawa's version of a taco truck situated across the street from a construction site.  I was not their target customer, but the server/greeter/cashier was both hysterical, and awesome.  She could not have been more engaging and helpful.  And this was not an example of typical superior customer service you come to expect in Japan.  She made me feel very much at home, introducing her 4 year old son to me, and me showing her pictures of my kids.  Good food and good times.

After eating, I peddled through Gushikawa, and back down through Okinawa-shi, Kitanakagusuku, Ginowan, to Urasoe.  Much more hilly than the coastline. It rained off and on during that return trek, and it was very much welcome.  While many went diving for awnings, I muddled on to meet my wife at her friend's place, arriving a stinking wet mess in an immaculately kept Japanese apartment.  After about an hour, I hopped back on the bike and mawaru'd back to Nishihara.

Trek 520 festooned with Arkel panniers.

Now, road cycling and touring cycling are not the same thing.  Many road cyclists I know have no idea what I'm talking about when I say I have a touring bike.  Mine is a Trek 520.  Built like a tank, but looks like a road bike with wider tires.  Compared to a road bike, super heavy.  A great donkey!  I've got an upgraded back pannier rack, and a front rack, with fenders. Then load it down with about 40 pounds of gear and tools, and bammo, you have a very heavy donkey to pedal around.  

Let's talk about panniers.  I choose Arkel for my journeys.  T-42s for the back, T-28s for the front, then a small bar bag on the handle bars, and a tailrider for the top of the back rack (slung across the top of the tailrider is my phone/pocket wifi charger solar panels - fits perfectly).  Slapping these suckers on your bike really changes the riding experience.  Added weight aside, then you do battle with the balance.  The bags also make for a great wind sail, so when the gusts come from anywhere other than front or back, you better have your wits about you, or you'll be blown into a curb at best, a car at worst.  Lastly, while having a bar bag is super convenient to stash things you want to grab while peddling, it's also a bit like having E.T. sitting on your handlebars.  

This is all to say that road cycling and cycle touring are two very different animals.

Toward the end of the ride, I was beginning to think that the purpose of doing a bicycle tour of Okinawa was to cycle all parts of the island.  And, in preparation for that, I've just about cycled the whole island south, and central, at least.  The only thing left is the north (the part I know the least).  So, right now, I'm considering my options, but may cut my planned ride by a couple days.

The original plan was/is as follows (routes all hug the coastline as much as possible):
Day 1 - Nishihara to Ikei Jima (north of the Kasturen peninsula)
Day 2 - Ikei Jima to Higashi-son (up near Nago, but on the east side)
Day 3 - Higashi-son to Nago (via going around the Motobu peninsula)
Day 4 - Nago to Itoman
Day 5 - Itoman to Nishihara

My potential new plan is:
Day 1 - Nishihara to Ikei Jima
Day 2 - Ikei Jima to Kouri Jima (the island just north of Nakijin)
Day 3 - Kouri Jima to Nishihara

We shall see.