But the no man's land between Haebaru and Tamagusuku has grown. Little villages were still little, but bigger. The Oba stores that I had counted on for my sustenance were not as ubiquitous as I thought they might be. (As I type right now, I hear the Nishihara morning announcements being shouted out through the neighborhood loud speakers.)
But first things first. I got my haircut by the only barber in Okinawa that I trust: Naha Higashi's Yonamine Shimai. After just about everyone recognizing me (and surprising me in this) in the Shuri Ward, I was somewhat confident that she'd remember me. She did not. At least, not at first, and not in the way I thought she would. We chatted about my time here, my hot wife, and the companions I had while in Okinawa. The only one she really remembered was Gaskill. (Gaskill, at one point, was on Facebook, and I was able to reach him through that. He appears to have dropped off, so if anyone knows his e-mail address, let me know, because Yonamine shimai would like to hear from him.)
After working on my melon for a minute or two she said, true to barber form, "I remember your head." From there, we reconstructed our history: her feeding me pig tongue on one of the first nights I was on the island (and in that, Gaskill taking me to another zone, way past 9 pm, getting back to the apartment at around 11 pm. He was a great trainer!), and also putting on a hair cutting clinic as a Relief Society katsudo in Naha Higashi Ward. Good times. That woman deserves a heaping helping of blessings for all of the free haircuts she gave missionaries.
With the new streamlined haircut, I went over to Haebaru's Bridgestone bike shop to rent a bike, told them I'd kanarazu get lost, but would have fun doing it. My destination was a beach near Ojima, and after several wrong turns, and more sets of bad directions from locals, I found the water, then found the beach. The beach is sort of run by a tourist/boating company that takes tourists out around the reef. I don't think they own the beach, but they acted like they did, so I shimmied down a little staircase off to the side, hid behind a rock, wrapped some clothes around my waist, changed into my mizugi, then jumped into the ocean.
As a water baby, it just about killed me that I was not able to get into the water during my mission.
The water, however, was pretty chilly. Now, I'm from the Pacific Northwest, and I surf, so I'm used to bone-chilling water. I had my board shorts on, waded in a step or two into the water, then ran back to my back pack to put on my rash guard. That warmed me up enough to swim around for a while (until I got bored...swimming by myself), then hopped out, dried off, got on my bike, and headed back.
On the way back, I found a great little panyasan in the middle of nowhere. Japanese bread is reallllly good. When you visit Japan, you must indulge. I sure have.
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